Saturday, May 28, 2011
2nd week in Cuenca
Wow! How time is flying! It's hard to believe that we have been here in Cuenca for two whole weeks already. We have settled in and have had a really busy week. We started our language classes at the Simon Bolivar Escuela Espanol--2 hours each day (2-4 pm) this week-a total of 10 hours each of private lessons. It has been grueling yet fun. Bob's teacher is a petite little gal named Maricela and mine is a very patient gal named Maria Elena. Yesterday, Friday, was a national holiday commemorating the Battle of Pichincha and everything public was closed. So, las profesoras came to our apartment for the lessons. Afterwards, we had cookies and tea/coffee and carried on a Spanglish conversation which was fun. We were amazed that they were willing to go the extra mile, literally, and come to us for the lessons. It was all good!
At the school on Tuesday, I met Tony, a gringo from S. California who was also taking lessons. He was in his third week. He shared with me that there would be a gringo gathering at a restaurant/bar (DeBacco) that night and that we should come. Well, we did and it was a lot of fun. [Politcal Correctness sidebar: Although the word Gringo may have racial overtones in N. America, its use in Ecuador is strictly descriptive and seems to carry no tinge of prejudice] We met Tony's delightful wife, Pam and a young DC couple, Elizabeth and Cameron. The opportunity to share experiences and learn more about Cuenca was priceless. We had a wonderful dinner: Eggplant parmesan and linguini. Elizabeth had an Ecuador I.D. called a Censo that was a laminated card with all the pertinent info on it (passport #, etc.). She told us where they got them and the process. Bob and I decided we should get one also.
On Wednesday, after school, we had plans to go out to dinner with Mark (N.C. gringo) and Alecia and Mark (an East Coast couple both born in Poland). They have bought condos in a colonial building and are getting ready to head back to the states next week. We walked to a local restaurant, Guayabamba. We had a wonderful time sharing experiences and enjoying the local fare. We drank hot Zhumir, an Ecuardorian drink (Zhumir liquor, cinnamon & sugar)--very sweet. We did NOT partake of cuy, a delicacy in Ecuador--guinea pig!!! We enjoyed the evening and hope to see them again when they return in December/January.
On Thursday morning, we went to the Immigration Dept. to get our cards. After giving our taxi driver all the info Elizabeth could load into our heads, we rode to the wrong building, but after a walk of several blocks, we finally located the right one and then had to get copies of our documents and buy a manila envelope. After about three trips back and forth to this office, we finally were satisfied that we were ready for the process of acquiring our Censos. We waited in line and finally it was our turn. BTW, none of the policia officers spoke English in this building. We went to "the man" and presented our paperwork and he asked where our Registration Stamp was in our passport. ???What??? We had no idea what he was talking about. He opened another processed envelope and showed us a copy of the stamp. He said that we had to get said stamp in Quito and that we had 30 days from entrance into the country to attain such. YIKES! Once we got the Registration Seal, we could then apply for the censo. We were taken aback and upset--of all the information that we had read, we had no idea that we had to register our visa with the government. Had we known, we would have done it first thing upon arriving in Quito. So, the bottom line here is that we now have to travel back to Quito. Since we entered the country on May 10, the clock is ticking. There is another national holiday coming up that spans 5 days starting June 4 (and everything will be closed), so we hustled to make flight reservations and will leave this coming Monday (May 30) for Quito and will return to Cuenca on Friday. We hope that a week will be sufficient to obtain the registration. :-( That afternoon, we headed back to our favorito Greek cafe for a burger and torte. We met a gringo couple there, Cheryl and Ray, from Virginia. Cheryl had come to Cuenca last July, seven months prior to Ray....stayed here all by herself and learned the lay of the land. She was quite informed and most willing to share. It was great to meet them and we will get together after our trip to Quito.
On Friday, Bob was taking a shower and we ran out of gas. Needless to say, that sped up his shower! The hot water unit and the stove are fueled by propane. We have two tanks in the apartment and inasmuch as the stove would not light, it was apparent that the first one had run out. We did not know how to disconnect and reconnect the line and were reluctant to be that Gringo couple that had cost the lives of eight Ecuadorian families while trying to switch out the gas tanks. So, we emailed the landlord. Being a holiday, the reply did not come until evening. Flor said that it was an easy process to connect the line and that the tanks of propane (which are quite large - about three times the size of the tank which powers a household bar-b-q) are only $2.00. We knocked on our neighbor's door and asked for help. Franc came over with son, Frank, and he showed us how easy it was. We are back in business again. We set a date with F & F for Saturday to have pizza together for dinner. :-)
After our home schooling, we joined Tony and Pam at the California Kitchen. It is a gringo restaurant that was hosting a 50's night with music and dancing. We had a great time and met another couple from Miami, Monica and Ted. They have bought a condo here in Cuenca and know - or least gotten tangled in - many of the ropes. I thoroughly enjoyed talking with Monica who shared their saga with me--most helpful.
So, as you can see, we are not lacking for social interaction. It was a busy week and we are enjoying a relaxing rainy Saturday. We will head soon for the local super market to refresh our food supplies and pick up some pizza toppings for tonight's get-together with the neighbors. We love being here and learn more everyday about our surroundings. The rooster and nuns with fireworks are becoming more and more like famly!
At the school on Tuesday, I met Tony, a gringo from S. California who was also taking lessons. He was in his third week. He shared with me that there would be a gringo gathering at a restaurant/bar (DeBacco) that night and that we should come. Well, we did and it was a lot of fun. [Politcal Correctness sidebar: Although the word Gringo may have racial overtones in N. America, its use in Ecuador is strictly descriptive and seems to carry no tinge of prejudice] We met Tony's delightful wife, Pam and a young DC couple, Elizabeth and Cameron. The opportunity to share experiences and learn more about Cuenca was priceless. We had a wonderful dinner: Eggplant parmesan and linguini. Elizabeth had an Ecuador I.D. called a Censo that was a laminated card with all the pertinent info on it (passport #, etc.). She told us where they got them and the process. Bob and I decided we should get one also.
On Wednesday, after school, we had plans to go out to dinner with Mark (N.C. gringo) and Alecia and Mark (an East Coast couple both born in Poland). They have bought condos in a colonial building and are getting ready to head back to the states next week. We walked to a local restaurant, Guayabamba. We had a wonderful time sharing experiences and enjoying the local fare. We drank hot Zhumir, an Ecuardorian drink (Zhumir liquor, cinnamon & sugar)--very sweet. We did NOT partake of cuy, a delicacy in Ecuador--guinea pig!!! We enjoyed the evening and hope to see them again when they return in December/January.
On Thursday morning, we went to the Immigration Dept. to get our cards. After giving our taxi driver all the info Elizabeth could load into our heads, we rode to the wrong building, but after a walk of several blocks, we finally located the right one and then had to get copies of our documents and buy a manila envelope. After about three trips back and forth to this office, we finally were satisfied that we were ready for the process of acquiring our Censos. We waited in line and finally it was our turn. BTW, none of the policia officers spoke English in this building. We went to "the man" and presented our paperwork and he asked where our Registration Stamp was in our passport. ???What??? We had no idea what he was talking about. He opened another processed envelope and showed us a copy of the stamp. He said that we had to get said stamp in Quito and that we had 30 days from entrance into the country to attain such. YIKES! Once we got the Registration Seal, we could then apply for the censo. We were taken aback and upset--of all the information that we had read, we had no idea that we had to register our visa with the government. Had we known, we would have done it first thing upon arriving in Quito. So, the bottom line here is that we now have to travel back to Quito. Since we entered the country on May 10, the clock is ticking. There is another national holiday coming up that spans 5 days starting June 4 (and everything will be closed), so we hustled to make flight reservations and will leave this coming Monday (May 30) for Quito and will return to Cuenca on Friday. We hope that a week will be sufficient to obtain the registration. :-( That afternoon, we headed back to our favorito Greek cafe for a burger and torte. We met a gringo couple there, Cheryl and Ray, from Virginia. Cheryl had come to Cuenca last July, seven months prior to Ray....stayed here all by herself and learned the lay of the land. She was quite informed and most willing to share. It was great to meet them and we will get together after our trip to Quito.
On Friday, Bob was taking a shower and we ran out of gas. Needless to say, that sped up his shower! The hot water unit and the stove are fueled by propane. We have two tanks in the apartment and inasmuch as the stove would not light, it was apparent that the first one had run out. We did not know how to disconnect and reconnect the line and were reluctant to be that Gringo couple that had cost the lives of eight Ecuadorian families while trying to switch out the gas tanks. So, we emailed the landlord. Being a holiday, the reply did not come until evening. Flor said that it was an easy process to connect the line and that the tanks of propane (which are quite large - about three times the size of the tank which powers a household bar-b-q) are only $2.00. We knocked on our neighbor's door and asked for help. Franc came over with son, Frank, and he showed us how easy it was. We are back in business again. We set a date with F & F for Saturday to have pizza together for dinner. :-)
After our home schooling, we joined Tony and Pam at the California Kitchen. It is a gringo restaurant that was hosting a 50's night with music and dancing. We had a great time and met another couple from Miami, Monica and Ted. They have bought a condo here in Cuenca and know - or least gotten tangled in - many of the ropes. I thoroughly enjoyed talking with Monica who shared their saga with me--most helpful.
So, as you can see, we are not lacking for social interaction. It was a busy week and we are enjoying a relaxing rainy Saturday. We will head soon for the local super market to refresh our food supplies and pick up some pizza toppings for tonight's get-together with the neighbors. We love being here and learn more everyday about our surroundings. The rooster and nuns with fireworks are becoming more and more like famly!
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Thursday, May 19, 2011
Cuenca, Sweet Cuenca
Friday, May 20, 2011
Neither Diane nor I can believe it has been a week since our last post. Much has happened and much has changed. Over the weekend we continued to get a sense of Cuenca. We got lazy at Casa Ordonez, getting up for breakfast [served 7:30 to 9:00am], but not getting out until after noon. Sunday, Alberto took us and another U.S. couple on a tour of the city, showing us some of the outlying areas and 'Gringoland' where many of the ex-pats live. We used the weekend to look for an apartment. We saw a few that were unsuitable, but on Sunday we found one [actually Diane first found it on CraigsList - Ecuador] that would suit our gringo needs - large living area with separate living and dining rooms, 3 bedrooms [more than we were looking for, but the extra closets are always welcome], 2 baths. A newer apartment. It is set back from the street a bit which helps keep the noise down. Alberto helped by interacting with the owner, keeping the price in line and helping with details. We agreed that the move-in would be Monday morning and that the rental would run through June 30. Apparently the place had already been rented for July. If we want, we can return August 1.
We moved out of Casa Ordonez last Monday morning. Alberto, his sister Ines, his brother-in-law Thorvaldt, Mother Ordonez and the staff were very gracious and most helpful. They feel like family. Alberto left yesterday for Norway to visit his wife who is finishing up her Masters in Communications and graduating...we miss him already. Alberto is considered by friends as the "Don" of Cuenca--in a good way! I recommend Casa Ordonez as a great starting point in Cuenca for anyone - gringo or otherwise. Alberto and Edwin (staff person) helped load our considerable number of suitcases, carry-ons and backpacks into his Hyundai SUV and carted us off to our new home at Gaspar Sangurima 13-75 because that is the kind of host he is. He even helped schlepp the luggage up the 18 steps [not that I am counting] to the second floor. Schlepping is a young man's sport at 2,450 meters [the SUV reports altitude on the screen]. It took a while for me to catch my breath. It felt wonderful to finally unpack and not to live out of our suitcases.
Monday afternoon, we went to a local supermercado for cleaning supplies and other small stuff. Later, Alberto dropped us off at a Super Maxi Grocery Store and we got serious--food-wise. It is a big US-style market with bakery and deli, lots of merchandise and wide aisles. The produce looked good and so we got a bunch of provisions. We were so far from the apartment that we took a $2 taxi back home.
On Tuesday, we were awakened by the local rooster at a very early hour. What's with the roosters and morning? Note to self: Close bedroom windows before retiring. That morning, we went took care of some personal business, with Alberto's help. Then we went off looking for the best Cuban sandwich in Cuenca [did I say that everything the Ecuadorians cook for local consumption is rife with cilantro so I am content to eat food cooked for foreigners] armed with directions from Thorvaldt. We missed finding the Eucalyptus Restaurant but stumbled on a Greek Cafe[!]. We had lunch, coffee and dessert, bought four large, fresh croissants and still got change back from a ten-spot. Afterwards, we ventured over to the large fruit/veggie market to get salad fixings for dinner. We bought papaya, beautiful, large tomatoes, small bag of peeled garlic, potatoes, some "tree" tomatoes that the lady told us were not for salads [still need to figure out what to do with them], chocolate for hot chocolate [not to eat], homemade pasta and a head of lettuce--all for less than $10. Diane started cooking that evening and it was a good thing because Wednesday would be a strange day.
Neither Diane nor I can believe it has been a week since our last post. Much has happened and much has changed. Over the weekend we continued to get a sense of Cuenca. We got lazy at Casa Ordonez, getting up for breakfast [served 7:30 to 9:00am], but not getting out until after noon. Sunday, Alberto took us and another U.S. couple on a tour of the city, showing us some of the outlying areas and 'Gringoland' where many of the ex-pats live. We used the weekend to look for an apartment. We saw a few that were unsuitable, but on Sunday we found one [actually Diane first found it on CraigsList - Ecuador] that would suit our gringo needs - large living area with separate living and dining rooms, 3 bedrooms [more than we were looking for, but the extra closets are always welcome], 2 baths. A newer apartment. It is set back from the street a bit which helps keep the noise down. Alberto helped by interacting with the owner, keeping the price in line and helping with details. We agreed that the move-in would be Monday morning and that the rental would run through June 30. Apparently the place had already been rented for July. If we want, we can return August 1.
We moved out of Casa Ordonez last Monday morning. Alberto, his sister Ines, his brother-in-law Thorvaldt, Mother Ordonez and the staff were very gracious and most helpful. They feel like family. Alberto left yesterday for Norway to visit his wife who is finishing up her Masters in Communications and graduating...we miss him already. Alberto is considered by friends as the "Don" of Cuenca--in a good way! I recommend Casa Ordonez as a great starting point in Cuenca for anyone - gringo or otherwise. Alberto and Edwin (staff person) helped load our considerable number of suitcases, carry-ons and backpacks into his Hyundai SUV and carted us off to our new home at Gaspar Sangurima 13-75 because that is the kind of host he is. He even helped schlepp the luggage up the 18 steps [not that I am counting] to the second floor. Schlepping is a young man's sport at 2,450 meters [the SUV reports altitude on the screen]. It took a while for me to catch my breath. It felt wonderful to finally unpack and not to live out of our suitcases.
Monday afternoon, we went to a local supermercado for cleaning supplies and other small stuff. Later, Alberto dropped us off at a Super Maxi Grocery Store and we got serious--food-wise. It is a big US-style market with bakery and deli, lots of merchandise and wide aisles. The produce looked good and so we got a bunch of provisions. We were so far from the apartment that we took a $2 taxi back home.
On Tuesday, we were awakened by the local rooster at a very early hour. What's with the roosters and morning? Note to self: Close bedroom windows before retiring. That morning, we went took care of some personal business, with Alberto's help. Then we went off looking for the best Cuban sandwich in Cuenca [did I say that everything the Ecuadorians cook for local consumption is rife with cilantro so I am content to eat food cooked for foreigners] armed with directions from Thorvaldt. We missed finding the Eucalyptus Restaurant but stumbled on a Greek Cafe[!]. We had lunch, coffee and dessert, bought four large, fresh croissants and still got change back from a ten-spot. Afterwards, we ventured over to the large fruit/veggie market to get salad fixings for dinner. We bought papaya, beautiful, large tomatoes, small bag of peeled garlic, potatoes, some "tree" tomatoes that the lady told us were not for salads [still need to figure out what to do with them], chocolate for hot chocolate [not to eat], homemade pasta and a head of lettuce--all for less than $10. Diane started cooking that evening and it was a good thing because Wednesday would be a strange day.
On Wednesday morning, we were awakened early by the local, annoying dog barking. Ok--who forgot to close the bedroom window last night? As we sat at the dining table Wednesday morning, around 10:00am, the lights went out in the apartment. Inasmuch as we had heard workers in the stairwell, neither of us gave it much thought, at first. After 15 minutes or so, I poked my head out the door and noted lights in the stairwell.
Thursday morning we were awaken early by the sound of loud sonic booms - fireworks set off by the local churches to honor the saints. It sounded like shotguns fired from the next room. Didn't matter that the windows were shut! The lights were not yet back on. We enjoyed a Cuenca breakfast of tuna salad because we weren't sure how long we could safely leave it in a powerless frig. It was tasty and satisfying albeit a bit oniony for breakfast. Nonetheless, we were overjoyed when the lights came back on at about 10:00am. God, Martha, and Empresa had turned our world back rightside up. Later that morning, we were sitting at the table when there was a knock at the door. A man who introduced himself as Fabian, Martha's brother, entered with a big bag. He brought us a toaster [long story], light bulbs, a liter box of wine [Concha y Tora, our favorite Chilean vineyard], and wine glasses -- a peace offering from Martha, or she was still working on that romantic evening. Nonetheless, we were suitably grateful and thanked Fabian profusely and continued the thankfulness into emails to Martha and Flor as well. We ventured out in the afternoon to the Greek Cafe for a cafe and piece of cake ($1.50 total). Afterwards, we stopped in the Simon Bolivar Language Academy to sign up for classes. We start private 2-hour lessons on Monday, everyday for a week. They are one-on-one. Both of us took Spanish in school but have not used it much since. We will see how this goes now that our needs are more immediate. If anything, it might help us to communicate with out landlord.
Friday was a comparatively quiet day. Between Diane and me, we spent a couple hours trying to program a universal remote to control the DVD player. It was ugly but eventually Diane outlasted it and came to some peace. The landlord had stocked some movies and we had watched an Adam Sandler/Jennifer Aniston movie Tuesday night. Remarkably it was in ingles. We found out most were in espanol. Part of problem is that movies in Ecuador, while inexpensive [$1], are invariably unprofessional copies. Alberto had instructed us that 'there are no pirates in Ecuador. We're pretty sure he was talking about illegal movie copies. So our two significant accomplishments for Friday were: Getting the remote to work for the DVD and figuring out why our internet wouldn't connect. We ventured out in the afternoon to go see Mark, a gringo we met at Casa Ordonez. He is an IT security guy and has bought a condo in a building not far from us. It may be a possibility for us to rent July 1st. He determined it was our internet service, not our Verizon Manager. We came back to the apartment and the manager said his was out too and had called. In about an hour, he knocked on our door to inform us all was well and the internet service was fixed. That was really nice of him--typical of the Ecuadorians--considerate and friendly. Friday evening we were able to watch 'The Tourist', in ingles. It is a Angelina Jolie/ Johnny Depp romantic drama. Life is good.
So, we close for now. We are enjoying our new life here in Cuenca. It hasn't been without some frustrations here and there but for the most part is leveling out and quite pleasant. We have two extra bedrooms and would love to play host to our friends and family anytime--just pack your earplugs if you want to sleep in.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
May 13 - On to Cuenca
At 5:30 a.m on a very rainy morning. we started loading up our luggage in the taxi, checked out of our hotel and headed to the airport. We had arranged for a 7:00 a.m. flight from Quito to Cuenca. We were anxious to check out Cuenca because everything we had heard and read pointed us south to a calmer environment and warmer climate. The elevation in Quito was 9000+ and in Cuenca it is 8000+. We got to the airport and the porter helped us to the ticket counter to get our boarding pass. It was A LOT less stressful than in Denver, which we were very thank ful for. We checked our 6 pieces of luggage (3 LARGE suitcases, 1 very stuffed backpack and 2 heavy carry-on suitcases) and they told us that we owed for the 50K extra weight. We had to go outside to a special counter to pay and it cost us $39.xx (cheaper than the $50 we paid in Denver AND they let us check 6 bags). What a deal!
The flight from Quito to Cuenca cost us $44.xx/each and was about an hour flight. We were pleased with the flight and even got a decent breakfast sandwich (ham & cheese) along with a beverage. When we arrived in Cuenca, it was sunny and dry--a welcome change from the rainy weather in Quito. The porter helped with our luggage to the taxi and we were off to our hotel. We had booked a bed and breakfast hotel--recommended as #1 on Trip Advisor--called Casa Ordonez. It is a colonial property that was purchased in 1905 by the grandfather of the current owner/manager. It is absolutely delightful, clean, has hot water and the manager Alberto is quite the host and advisor. He has directed us to restaurants, a realtor, various properties, etc.etc.etc. He speaks English, which has really helped. We also met several American couples on the same adventure/quest as us....lots to talk about and questions to be asked.
We walked around El Centro and the market squares and it is truly calmer and more beautiful than Quito. There are lots of families walking about and a real sense of community here. We checked out the open food market and held our breath through the raw meat section to get to the fruit and vegetable section. It was quite impressive and we can hardly wait to shop for our groceries there.
So, we decided to test the notion of a $2.00 lunch. We walked into a restaurant and Bob ordered lunch. They brought us some tamarind juice (tasted like apple) and popcorn for an appetizer. We had a choice of soup: traditional soup with corn or bean soup (lentil). We both chose the traditional soup with corn. Of course, it had cilantro in it...just like EVERYTHING else here in Cuenca. Bob just loved it...haha! Then the waiter brought us the main dish: piece of fried chicken, boiled rice and some kind of runny mashed potatoes or corn or something. The chicken was yummy. With a little bit of salt and pepper, the rice and ? were palatable. For desert, there was a square of jello. Wham...$2.00 lunch....well worth it!!
Since we were looking for a place to live, Alberto took us to see a pent house loft--a rental of his friend. Well, we weren't impressed with the condo but the rooftop view was incredible! Unfortunately, this abode was not for us but I did get some decent pictures.
Then, we walked to another American's (Mark's) condo which was under construction...would be available for rent 7-1-11. The developer/builder had gutted a colonial building and created six units within it. It was very much under construction with workers and dust everywhere. It was a very nice unit with new appliances. We met another owner there from New Jersey/Poland that would also have a unit for rent but again, would not be available for a while. So, the time was spent educating ourselves about the properties and culture of Cuenca.
Bob was tired of fighting the cilantro so we went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and relaxed. A bottle of wine, caesar salad, pasta and chocolate brownie was enough to relax us and end the evening. Because of an incredible downpour, we had to take a taxi back to the hotel. Life is good.
The flight from Quito to Cuenca cost us $44.xx/each and was about an hour flight. We were pleased with the flight and even got a decent breakfast sandwich (ham & cheese) along with a beverage. When we arrived in Cuenca, it was sunny and dry--a welcome change from the rainy weather in Quito. The porter helped with our luggage to the taxi and we were off to our hotel. We had booked a bed and breakfast hotel--recommended as #1 on Trip Advisor--called Casa Ordonez. It is a colonial property that was purchased in 1905 by the grandfather of the current owner/manager. It is absolutely delightful, clean, has hot water and the manager Alberto is quite the host and advisor. He has directed us to restaurants, a realtor, various properties, etc.etc.etc. He speaks English, which has really helped. We also met several American couples on the same adventure/quest as us....lots to talk about and questions to be asked.
We walked around El Centro and the market squares and it is truly calmer and more beautiful than Quito. There are lots of families walking about and a real sense of community here. We checked out the open food market and held our breath through the raw meat section to get to the fruit and vegetable section. It was quite impressive and we can hardly wait to shop for our groceries there.
So, we decided to test the notion of a $2.00 lunch. We walked into a restaurant and Bob ordered lunch. They brought us some tamarind juice (tasted like apple) and popcorn for an appetizer. We had a choice of soup: traditional soup with corn or bean soup (lentil). We both chose the traditional soup with corn. Of course, it had cilantro in it...just like EVERYTHING else here in Cuenca. Bob just loved it...haha! Then the waiter brought us the main dish: piece of fried chicken, boiled rice and some kind of runny mashed potatoes or corn or something. The chicken was yummy. With a little bit of salt and pepper, the rice and ? were palatable. For desert, there was a square of jello. Wham...$2.00 lunch....well worth it!!
Since we were looking for a place to live, Alberto took us to see a pent house loft--a rental of his friend. Well, we weren't impressed with the condo but the rooftop view was incredible! Unfortunately, this abode was not for us but I did get some decent pictures.
Then, we walked to another American's (Mark's) condo which was under construction...would be available for rent 7-1-11. The developer/builder had gutted a colonial building and created six units within it. It was very much under construction with workers and dust everywhere. It was a very nice unit with new appliances. We met another owner there from New Jersey/Poland that would also have a unit for rent but again, would not be available for a while. So, the time was spent educating ourselves about the properties and culture of Cuenca.
Bob was tired of fighting the cilantro so we went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and relaxed. A bottle of wine, caesar salad, pasta and chocolate brownie was enough to relax us and end the evening. Because of an incredible downpour, we had to take a taxi back to the hotel. Life is good.
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
Quito
Tuesday May 10, 2011
The day started in chaos. The city of Miami shut off water to the hotel between 10am and 2pm. We snuck in our showers just before the deadline. In fact, the water went off as Diane was finishing. Understand this: We have much more luggage than we should. Never having gone anywhere for six weeks let alone six months, we way overpacked. We decided to change to a third large piece of luggage to reduce the number of bags. Repacking was time consuming. Our flight would leave at 2pm and we missed the noon shuttle to the airport so we caught a cab to the terminal. Our driver, Sajjid, tried to calm us telling us we would make the flight. Yet we faced the rigors of the TSA and an unknown airline, LAN. When we got to the ticket counter, Isabel was our agent. She was the angel of the day. She checked six of our bags, one overweight by almost 10 kilos, and pointed us to the J Concourse, boarding passes in hand. No charge for the extra baggage! For whatever reason, we sailed through Security. To me it is hardly satisfying that much the same issues existed in Miami that existed in Denver yet the two experiences were completely different. We sat at the gate for about 15 minutes, counting our blessings. We flew on a not-quite-full Boeing 767 with 2-3-2 seating. The flight was a joy, smooth with great service - even a meal. I listened to Paul Simon on the headset and was continuously jealous of our daughter Emily who will see him in concert in Chicago soon. It was a long, smooth flight and the skies below were cloudy the entire way, we were grateful to arrive on time.
We arrived around 5pm local time. Ecuador is in the Eastern Time Zone but remains on Standard Time. There is but one hour difference between Denver and Quito during Daylight Savings Time in the States. The airport at Quito is Mariscal Sucre. It is not up to the standards of modern US airports. Much less pretense, yet retaining all the practicality of airports of the 50's. It reminded me of the airport at Newark we used to fly into for summer training with Arthur Young - lots of concrete block, little else. Getting through Customs took time but was a breeze compared to everything the TSA has to offer. Diane took some interesting pics of Quito on the flight in. It is a long narrow city situated among the Andes. I hope she gets a chance to post a shot or two.
We hoped that our hotel would send a shuttle but it was not to be. We caught a $7 cab to Hotel Rio Amazonas. On the way to the hotel we caught a look at Cotapaxi, the highest point in Ecuador. It is a beautiful mountain along the lines of Fuji [which I have only seen in pictures], with a thick covering of snow at the summit. The HRA is very nice hotel, ten stories with 74 rooms. We are on the 9th floor and were told we would see Cotpaxi in the morning but clouds marked the day today. In Ecuador, the sun sets at 6pm [and comes up at 6am]. By the time we settled in, it was after sundown, so we opted to dine at La Canoa in the hotel. Since I was looking for local fare, I had a potato soup with fresh cheese and avocado and empanadas stuffed with Yucca. Diane had a lomo [steak] plate with green beans, carrots and potatoes. We both were pleased and primed to enjoy more of the local food. We topped off dinner with dessert: tres leches cake and flan.
We are both thankful for all the well wishes and prayers which accompanied our departure to and safe arrival in Ecuador. We are still recovering from the rigors of the move but look forward to the adventure here. Although we will likely not post every day while we are traveling, here at HRA with good Internet access we will do our best.
Wednesday May 11, 2011
It took until noon for us to get out of the room. God watched over us today as Diane took a tumble stepping into the shower. She hit her back on the edge of the tub but other than a nasty red welt she emerged unscathed. When we left the room to explore Quito, the chambermaid greeted us with a hearty, Buenas Tardes, perhaps to draw attention to the late hour.
Wednesday was a cloudy day with comfortable temps, and a kite-worthy breeze. We walked over to Plaza Foch in part becuase it was recommended by another HRA guest. While Diane and I talked about which cafe to patronize, a nearby local said to try the Juan Valdez, as it was much like a Starbucks. He turned out to be a lonely but helpful electronic engineer and part-time symbologist who picked up on the coins necklace Diane bought on a prior trip to Peru. He gave some advice on where to look for apts in Quito and gave us specific buildings and addresses. He had a cup of coffee with us and tried to be helpful on other cities to see - yes to Cuenca, Rio Cabamba, Banos and Loja; no to Cotacachi. We sat outside and talked for quite a while enjoying the strong Colombian coffee [remember this is the Juan Valdez Cafe, after all] and his great insight/attitude toward Ecuador. Although his wife was from NY, and they had a son and lived in Manhattan for some length of years, yet he is quite happy to remain here.
We had lunch on the Plaza, again Ecuadorian food. During lunch a well-dressed man as old as any came into the restaurant carrying a type of harp. He sat and played for about 20 minutes, circulated among the patrons collecting tips, and then took his harp upstairs to enchant the people above. It was an unexpected interlude and a joyful addition to a tasty lunch. It was about 5pm by the time we got back to the HRA. Diane discovered that we had received a response to an email I had sent in the morning to a company that would advise us on Quito lodging. We caught a $4 cab to Quito Colonial and met up with Matthew at his new cafe not far from the Grand Plaza. Matthew is an ex-pat who came to Quito nine years ago and has since married a Ecuadorian wife and has a family. He is from Louisiana, but not planning on returning. He gave us help on finding a place to live in Quito if we want. He was very helpful and left us with his card as he had to meet with the ice-cream vendor. We will not be using Matthew's services for awhile as we have already arranged to fly south, a plan he heartily endorsed.
More on this in the next post. Thanks for looking in on this blog.
God bless you as He has blessed us, and more.
Bob
The day started in chaos. The city of Miami shut off water to the hotel between 10am and 2pm. We snuck in our showers just before the deadline. In fact, the water went off as Diane was finishing. Understand this: We have much more luggage than we should. Never having gone anywhere for six weeks let alone six months, we way overpacked. We decided to change to a third large piece of luggage to reduce the number of bags. Repacking was time consuming. Our flight would leave at 2pm and we missed the noon shuttle to the airport so we caught a cab to the terminal. Our driver, Sajjid, tried to calm us telling us we would make the flight. Yet we faced the rigors of the TSA and an unknown airline, LAN. When we got to the ticket counter, Isabel was our agent. She was the angel of the day. She checked six of our bags, one overweight by almost 10 kilos, and pointed us to the J Concourse, boarding passes in hand. No charge for the extra baggage! For whatever reason, we sailed through Security. To me it is hardly satisfying that much the same issues existed in Miami that existed in Denver yet the two experiences were completely different. We sat at the gate for about 15 minutes, counting our blessings. We flew on a not-quite-full Boeing 767 with 2-3-2 seating. The flight was a joy, smooth with great service - even a meal. I listened to Paul Simon on the headset and was continuously jealous of our daughter Emily who will see him in concert in Chicago soon. It was a long, smooth flight and the skies below were cloudy the entire way, we were grateful to arrive on time.
We arrived around 5pm local time. Ecuador is in the Eastern Time Zone but remains on Standard Time. There is but one hour difference between Denver and Quito during Daylight Savings Time in the States. The airport at Quito is Mariscal Sucre. It is not up to the standards of modern US airports. Much less pretense, yet retaining all the practicality of airports of the 50's. It reminded me of the airport at Newark we used to fly into for summer training with Arthur Young - lots of concrete block, little else. Getting through Customs took time but was a breeze compared to everything the TSA has to offer. Diane took some interesting pics of Quito on the flight in. It is a long narrow city situated among the Andes. I hope she gets a chance to post a shot or two.
We hoped that our hotel would send a shuttle but it was not to be. We caught a $7 cab to Hotel Rio Amazonas. On the way to the hotel we caught a look at Cotapaxi, the highest point in Ecuador. It is a beautiful mountain along the lines of Fuji [which I have only seen in pictures], with a thick covering of snow at the summit. The HRA is very nice hotel, ten stories with 74 rooms. We are on the 9th floor and were told we would see Cotpaxi in the morning but clouds marked the day today. In Ecuador, the sun sets at 6pm [and comes up at 6am]. By the time we settled in, it was after sundown, so we opted to dine at La Canoa in the hotel. Since I was looking for local fare, I had a potato soup with fresh cheese and avocado and empanadas stuffed with Yucca. Diane had a lomo [steak] plate with green beans, carrots and potatoes. We both were pleased and primed to enjoy more of the local food. We topped off dinner with dessert: tres leches cake and flan.
We are both thankful for all the well wishes and prayers which accompanied our departure to and safe arrival in Ecuador. We are still recovering from the rigors of the move but look forward to the adventure here. Although we will likely not post every day while we are traveling, here at HRA with good Internet access we will do our best.
Wednesday May 11, 2011
It took until noon for us to get out of the room. God watched over us today as Diane took a tumble stepping into the shower. She hit her back on the edge of the tub but other than a nasty red welt she emerged unscathed. When we left the room to explore Quito, the chambermaid greeted us with a hearty, Buenas Tardes, perhaps to draw attention to the late hour.
Wednesday was a cloudy day with comfortable temps, and a kite-worthy breeze. We walked over to Plaza Foch in part becuase it was recommended by another HRA guest. While Diane and I talked about which cafe to patronize, a nearby local said to try the Juan Valdez, as it was much like a Starbucks. He turned out to be a lonely but helpful electronic engineer and part-time symbologist who picked up on the coins necklace Diane bought on a prior trip to Peru. He gave some advice on where to look for apts in Quito and gave us specific buildings and addresses. He had a cup of coffee with us and tried to be helpful on other cities to see - yes to Cuenca, Rio Cabamba, Banos and Loja; no to Cotacachi. We sat outside and talked for quite a while enjoying the strong Colombian coffee [remember this is the Juan Valdez Cafe, after all] and his great insight/attitude toward Ecuador. Although his wife was from NY, and they had a son and lived in Manhattan for some length of years, yet he is quite happy to remain here.
We had lunch on the Plaza, again Ecuadorian food. During lunch a well-dressed man as old as any came into the restaurant carrying a type of harp. He sat and played for about 20 minutes, circulated among the patrons collecting tips, and then took his harp upstairs to enchant the people above. It was an unexpected interlude and a joyful addition to a tasty lunch. It was about 5pm by the time we got back to the HRA. Diane discovered that we had received a response to an email I had sent in the morning to a company that would advise us on Quito lodging. We caught a $4 cab to Quito Colonial and met up with Matthew at his new cafe not far from the Grand Plaza. Matthew is an ex-pat who came to Quito nine years ago and has since married a Ecuadorian wife and has a family. He is from Louisiana, but not planning on returning. He gave us help on finding a place to live in Quito if we want. He was very helpful and left us with his card as he had to meet with the ice-cream vendor. We will not be using Matthew's services for awhile as we have already arranged to fly south, a plan he heartily endorsed.
More on this in the next post. Thanks for looking in on this blog.
God bless you as He has blessed us, and more.
Bob
Monday, May 9, 2011
Porque...
Diane and I are on the verge of the adventure. After six months of planning and hard work, we finished up at our apartment yesterday, all our belongings are now in storage and we are exhausted beyond imagination. It was an experience that we hope we will never repeat.
Today we travelled from Denver to Miami. Air travel is such a crap shoot. Even when you get to the airport in plenty of time, TSA has the opportunity to derail your schedule. (Note: Never use gallon zip lock bags to house your quart size bags--it just messes with their head; and if you are traveling out of the country for five+ months, don't even think of taking multiple deodorants or anything else!) Eventually we managed to get through Security, but the cost was great. We missed our 7:40 a.m. flight, arriving at the gate after the plane had left. The next flight was full, so we waited for the next and at 11:05 a.m. were awarded the final two seats on a nonstop. We got to Ft. Lauderdale around 5pm. Once we were reunited with our bags (which had been pilfered), a nice man with a thick Colombian accent offered to drive us to Miami in his Town Car. It was the highlight of our day. The car was clean and cool in the FL heat - 90 degrees when we arrived. Traveling with six months' luggage is a challenge, but John and his Town Car helped to redeem the day. I still dislike flying for its artifice and sham security but I can't swim to Ecuador.
More often than not, over the past few months, when we told others of our plans [including our children], they would answer 'Why Ecuador?' There are constructive reasons like health, retirement, adventure, economical living, and so forth; but the answer is not found in the statistics. Although Diane has seen Ecuador from its Pacific beaches, she did not envision relocating here. When I told our Hispanic associates we intended to move to Ecuador, practically every person would respond, 'Ahhh, EcuaDOR.' And they would tell how they were from this place or that, but they would much rather spend time in Ecuador. It was this spiritual dimension that fed the flame. We came to Denver the first time on much the same fuel. Leaving family and friends in Detroit, Diane and I came with a dream - newly wed and wondering what was next. Thirty seven years, five children, and two beautiful granddaughters later, again we we are about to find out what is next.
Quito is a mountain city comparable in population to greater Denver - 2.5 million. We found the downtown neighborhood in Denver immensely enjoyable: Cherry Creek with its endless bike path, the Central Library, Denver's striking Art Museum, walking and Mall Shuttle distance to Coors Field, a great church - St. Johns Lutheran, Washington Park, our favorite French restaurant -Le Central, Denver's Performing Arts Center, etc. You get the picture. Diane even rode her scooter downtown to work and back. We will seek out a neighborhood in Quito equally as enchanting. Ecuador has a twelve month growing season and its days are comprised of 12 hours each of light and dark. The weather? It rarely goes above 80 and rarely drops below 50. The altitude is about 9,000 feet. We expect the altitude and low humidity to be as healthful for Diane and me as Denver's climate [without Winter's rigors]. At some point in the next five months we also intend to explore Cuenca. At 8,000 feet and a half million residents, it is another possibility for long term residency.
Why Ecuador? We will begin to learn that answer tomorrow when we fly Ecuador's LAN airline to Quito. With any luck, we will not miss our plane this time. We look forward to introducing you all to the adventure as it unfolds around us. Thanks for looking in.
Bob
BTW: Before we left Denver, Diane took some pics of our apartment. Many of you have seen it, but not this empty or clean.
More often than not, over the past few months, when we told others of our plans [including our children], they would answer 'Why Ecuador?' There are constructive reasons like health, retirement, adventure, economical living, and so forth; but the answer is not found in the statistics. Although Diane has seen Ecuador from its Pacific beaches, she did not envision relocating here. When I told our Hispanic associates we intended to move to Ecuador, practically every person would respond, 'Ahhh, EcuaDOR.' And they would tell how they were from this place or that, but they would much rather spend time in Ecuador. It was this spiritual dimension that fed the flame. We came to Denver the first time on much the same fuel. Leaving family and friends in Detroit, Diane and I came with a dream - newly wed and wondering what was next. Thirty seven years, five children, and two beautiful granddaughters later, again we we are about to find out what is next.
Quito is a mountain city comparable in population to greater Denver - 2.5 million. We found the downtown neighborhood in Denver immensely enjoyable: Cherry Creek with its endless bike path, the Central Library, Denver's striking Art Museum, walking and Mall Shuttle distance to Coors Field, a great church - St. Johns Lutheran, Washington Park, our favorite French restaurant -Le Central, Denver's Performing Arts Center, etc. You get the picture. Diane even rode her scooter downtown to work and back. We will seek out a neighborhood in Quito equally as enchanting. Ecuador has a twelve month growing season and its days are comprised of 12 hours each of light and dark. The weather? It rarely goes above 80 and rarely drops below 50. The altitude is about 9,000 feet. We expect the altitude and low humidity to be as healthful for Diane and me as Denver's climate [without Winter's rigors]. At some point in the next five months we also intend to explore Cuenca. At 8,000 feet and a half million residents, it is another possibility for long term residency.
Why Ecuador? We will begin to learn that answer tomorrow when we fly Ecuador's LAN airline to Quito. With any luck, we will not miss our plane this time. We look forward to introducing you all to the adventure as it unfolds around us. Thanks for looking in.
Bob
BTW: Before we left Denver, Diane took some pics of our apartment. Many of you have seen it, but not this empty or clean.
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